A hike along the 660 kilometre length of the Australian Alps Walking Track from Walhalla in Victoria to Tharwa in New South Wales.

Australian Alps Walking Track - Day 009 - Camp Creek to Barry Saddle

 

Day:009
Date:

Wednesday, 23 March 2011

Start:

Camp Creek

Finish:

Barry Saddle

Camp LocationHere
Daily Kilometres:

15.3

Total Kilometres:

187.6 AAWT

Animal Encounters

Birds

People Encounters

None

Weather:

Foggy with rain or drizzle most of the time

Pictures:

No pictures, iPhone stopped working

Journal:

It rained frequently during the night and was still drizzling when I got up at 7am. Everything was very wet outside including puddles right outside the tent. Inside the tent was damp as well because of the condensation. I packed everything I could while inside the tent before getting out then ate breakfast clad in my raingear in the drizzle. I set off at 8:45am quite anxious about the day. Only 15+km to go, but very tough trail and the scary ascent of The Viking in prospect. I couldn't afford to get lost or take my time.

The early walking was along a rocky old firetrail that had become a stream in the rain. But it was pleasant enough walking and I made reasonable time for a couple of kilometres. Then I left the firetrail and began carefully following the faint trail through the very wet undergrowth. I soon became very wet. I took a break at the top of Mt Despair (1464m) in the rain and fog then headed towards The Razor in increasingly dense scrub, a couple of metres high, that was soaking wet. Soon I became totally saturated and quite cold.

There were no views at The Razor because of the fog. It was very hard to follow the trail and I had to concentrate hard. Near Viking Saddle, I could hear faint music and eventually worked out that my iPhone had turned itself on through either becoming damp or a knock in a fall. It had been turned completely off! Battery was now down to 10%. Hope I haven't written it off. It was inside a small closed dry bag in a side pocket of my pack, but had still become damp. I buried it inside my pack. I was so cold and wet now, I got out my lightweight down jacket and put that on under my Goretex rain gear to try and warm up a little. The dense scrub was sopping wet and I could not have been more wet and cold if I had been ocean swimming!  Conscious of the time and The Viking ahead, I had minimal breaks and kept moving.

The ascent of The Viking was steep and wet and capped off with a scary clamber up a narrow rock chimney. I was wet, cold and nervous, and the wet rocks were slippery. Not a good combination, but I took as much care as possible and made it to the top (1519m) with great relief. It was foggy, windy and cold and there were no views. The trail followed the base of a craggy ridge and became even harder to follow and I took great care. Nevertheless, I managed to get off course and probably wasted 30-45 minutes crashing around on a sodden rough scrubby hillside trying to work out where the trail was. Did I mention that it was foggy and raining?

Eventually, with the help of my GPS, I got back on course and continued on. Soon after came a very treacherous and long steep descent that was almost as scary as the ascent. I slipped and fell a number of times. It was very slow going. Eventually the grades became a bit easier and the last hour became a slog through the usual dense sopping wet scrub over a few knolls until I reached Barry Saddle at 7:15pm, totally saturated. I put up the damp tent and ate while still in my saturated clothes, figuring they might start to dry a little with body heat. I then put on my dry thermals, hung my wet clothes out in the forlorn hope they might dry a little overnight, and jumped into a slightly damp sleeping bag at 8:45pm. Some stars were just visible through the fog directly overhead.

Australian Alps Walking Track - Day 008 - Chesters Yard to Camp Creek

 

Day:008
Date:

Tuesday, 22 March 2011

Start:

Chesters Yards

Finish:

Camp Creek

Camp LocationHere
Daily Kilometres:

18.7

Total Kilometres:

172.3 AAWT

Animal Encounters

Birds

People Encounters

One hiker and a group of Outdoor Ed trainees

Weather:

Mostly overcast, some fog and rain

Pictures:Here
Journal:

I got up at 7am when it got light and hoped for a better day. The weather looked OK. The early walking was along an old firetrail made boggy in places by cows. What are they doing here!  I didn't bother climbing King Billy 1 or 2, given there were other, higher, mountains coming up shortly. I made good time along the trail through the visually pleasant alpine forest -  gnarly snow gums, tussocky grass and saplings. After a while I left the firetrail to head east towards Mt Magdala and was pleased to find the foot trail was easier to follow than yesterday. It was like a freeway by comparison, though still quite hard walking.

The views from the grassy top of Mt Magdala (1725m) were fantastic as promised by the guide book, with mountains rolling off in all directions. On the way up the next mountain, Big Hill, I met a guy day-hiking from a nearby hut and we chatted for about 15 minutes. The subject of water came up and I mentioned that I needed to make Camp Creek tonight or would be a bit short. He immediately offered to give me the litre he was carrying, but I politely declined. How nice was that?  On top of the grassy Mt Howitt (1738m) I had lunch enjoying the stupendous views and spread out my tent and sleeping bag to dry in the sun and wind. After lunch I had to negotiate the aptly-named Crosscut Saw (up and down, up and down, you get the picture) where I was often on a very narrow ridge with very steep drop-offs on both sides.

The constant climbing and descending was slow and tiring but the views were great. This was the start of a declared Wilderness Area. Then followed the also aptly-named Mt Buggery (1605m) and the descent to the also aptly-named Horrible Gap. Hard work! There followed a very challenging ascent of Mt Speculation (1668m). In some places it involved virtual rock-climbing with the heavy pack that had the heart pumping with a combination of work and fear. It had been raining so the rocks were slick. Then the fog closed in and I couldn't see anything from the top anyway, though I could smell wood smoke from somewhere. Half a kilometre later, I came across a group of about six Outdoor Ed diploma students (including instructor) on their expedition - only 3 days into their 7-day hike and they had already had two drop out!  I had a brief chat and continued on another kilometre to Camp Creek where I could get water, arriving at 6:30pm.

The rain held off until I had almost completed dinner then came bucketing down for 45 minutes. Everything got a bit damp - it was very sudden and dark at the time - but nothing too bad. I finished eating dinner in the tent. Happy with the day, but conscious that I had been averaging 2kph for much of the day with another hard day coming up tomorrow. In bed by 9pm.

Australian Alps Walking Track - Day 007 - Mt McDonald to Chesters Yard

 

Day:007
Date:

Monday, 21 March 2011

Start:

Mt McDonald

Finish:

Chesters Yards

Camp LocationHere
Daily Kilometres:

19.2

Total Kilometres:

153.6 AAWT

Animal Encounters

Birds

People Encounters

None

Weather:

Mostly overcast

Pictures:Here
Journal:

The early walking made up for the hard work of yesterday as I followed the crests of Mt McDonald round to the east. Although overcast, it was clear and I could see many kilometres to the north, east and west. The ski village on the peak of Mt Buller across the Howqua Valley seemed almost touchable. I remembered a year ago, having run a race that finished at the top of Mt Buller, looking across to these mountains knowing that was the route of the AAWT. Despite the pleasant views, the going was slow and there was no real track to follow. It took me far too long to eventually descend to Nobs Track junction which I reached at noon. Aware that water was scarce ahead, I hid my pack and walked 1.7km down a firetrail to a pretty little creek and then hauled about 5 liters back up, having drunk my fill from the pure little stream. By the time I had done that and had a snack, it was after 1pm and I knew I might be pressed to make it to Chesters Yards for the night.

My pace improved along the firetrail, and then on the vague foot track on the climb of High Cone (which I actually sidled across, rather than climbed) and I started to think I might be OK for time and enjoyed the faint trail through the snow gum forests. However, when I decided to follow the supposed trail that crossed the slopes of Square Top, I just could not see the track at all and ended up wearing myself out making progress cross-country along the very steep slippery and scrubby slope. My feet and legs became so sore and my progress so slow, I gave up on the route and hauled myself up the steep slope to the top where it was a relief to stand on flat ground. I had wasted at least an hour. I still had to descend from Square Top and then climb Mt Clear (1695m). I picked up a faint trail on the Square Top descent. By now it was 6pm and getting foggy and raining.

With some misgivings about the risks of proceeding at this hour in these conditions, I pressed on, often losing the trail and saw nothing in the fog from the top. By the time I started my descent from Mt Clear, it was very gloomy and I slipped and fell on the wet rocks several times but managed to stick with the faint trail. By the time I reached the bottom, it was dark and I had to get my headlamp out. The 3.5km to Chesters Yards in the fog and rain was no fun on the boggy firetrail. I could barely see 5m in any direction and worried I would miss the Yards where there was supposed to be a place to camp and fresh water. The GPS came in handy and I arrived at 9pm. There were cow pads about (shouldn't be cows in a National Park, but there's a political dispute going on between the State and Federal governments) and they had churned up the road and round the stream. The rain fortuitously stopped, I set up camp, cooked dinner, gave the wash a miss and was in bed by 10:30pm.

Australian Alps Walking Track - Day 006 - Rumpff Saddle to Mt McDonald

 

Day:006
Date:

Sunday, 20 March 2011

Start:

Rumpff Saddle + 1.5km

Finish:

Mt McDonald

Camp LocationHere
Daily Kilometres:

22.4

Total Kilometres:

134.4 AAWT

Animal Encounters

Birds

People Encounters

One 4WD

Weather:

Mostly sunny and mild

Pictures:Here
Journal:

I woke during the night to bright moonlight and no fog. On the road soon after 8:30am and spent the morning following the ridge of the Great Divide on old firetrails. The walking was pleasant, though the constant ups and downs were taking it out of me with a full pack. Through the trees on both sides of the ridge were tree-covered valleys and mountains as far as the eye could see. I reached Mt Sunday (1407m) at lunch time having made a few decisions about the hike going forward. I had set myself an aggressive 26 day schedule in the hope I would finish in Canberra in time to see some friends run the marathon there. However, I now don't think that's realistic and I want to enjoy the hike so will now aim for roughly 30 days including a day off in Mt Hotham and Thredbo. Also, the solar chargers I brought for my iPhone don't seem to be working very well and, since I had to discard my usual camera which had ceased to function, I need my iPhone for pictures. Therefore, future reports will be minimal and I'll keep a written journal.

After lunch, the descent from Mt Sunday was made much easier because someone had been through with a brush-cutter and chainsaw. It was virtual jungle and would have been really tough bush-bashing. I even found a trickle of water near some ferns and was able to fill my bottles. The climb to Mt McDonald (1620m) that followed was another challenge following an overgrown ridge and slow work. There was not really a trail, just occasional signs someone had been there before. As the ridge climbed higher it became very rocky and I didn't enjoy the boulder hopping with my heavy pack and fatigue. Kept thinking about the movie 127 Hours!  At the higher altitudes the brush thinned, though still a tough climb but the views were fantastic. Real wilderness. Then I started to hear some thunder coming from the south and decided at 6:15pm I was better to make camp while dry rather than continue on across some bare peaks.

I found a small partly protected dip near the peak, and enjoyed dinner on the edge of a high bluff watching a beautiful sunset with the storms missing me to the south.

Australian Alps Walking Track - Day 005 - Black River to Rumpff Saddle

 

Day:005
Date:

Saturday, 19 March 2011

Start:

Black River

Finish:

Rumpff Saddle + 1.5km

Camp LocationHere
Daily Kilometres:

16.7

Total Kilometres:

112.2 AAWT

Animal Encounters

Birds

People Encounters

5 motorcyclists, 3 cars

Weather:

Cool and damp early, mostly sunny and mild later

Pictures:Here
Journal:

I got up at 7 and left soon after 8 as planned and that was about the extent of things going to plan for the day. Firstly, the log crossing of the Black River turned out to be a figment of the guide book's imagination and I ploughed across the shallow river as quickly as I could hoping that my Goretex boots and gaiters would do the job, which they did. Then the guide book suggested I needed to head downstream to pick up a trail up a spur, but everything was very overgrown and the only path I could see seemed to go straight up the bluff. I followed it and after some precarious moments reached the top of the spur where I needed to be and saw a marker on a tree, the last I would see for 4.5 hours. It took me that long to reach the top of Mt Shillinglaw (1305m) 5 kilometers later. I didn't get lost, but it was impossible to follow what faint trail there was through the incredibly dense vegetation.

Basically, for hours on end, I was just muscling through the jungle, clambering over fallen trees, many of them burnt and black, and forcing my way through. So long as I was heading up, I knew I was on track, but I did use my GPS for occasional reassurance. Eventually I picked up a faint and overgrown firetrail and followed it to the summit of Mt Shillinglaw, more than two hours later than planned.

Anyone who has hiked this section will understand what a relief it is to have that bit of trail behind me. I reached the Jamieson-Licola road about 1:30pm and found my food dump intact and enjoyed some treats for lunch. I've had to revise back my goal for today and will remain about half a day behind schedule.

I set off after lunch and a repack with my fresh supplies that took 1.5 hours, but was a much needed break after the travails of the morning. I now had a couple of kms on the J-L road, then I decided to take Middle Ridge Road, a guide book alternative, rather than the official AAWT route which climbed higher for some views. I had seen the views when I put out my food dump, and I had to gather some water before camping, including enough to see me through tomorrow, and the only convenient stream was the way I was going. I enjoyed a peaceful afternoon following the road which contoured the mountain and gave great views to the east until fog began to close in around 5pm.

The only downside to the afternoon was my increased pack weight because I was now carrying 5-6 days of food, made even worse when I added 5 liters of water to the load 3km before I camped in a quiet little saddle about 1.5km past Rumpff Saddle soon after 6:30pm. In the fog and a breeze it got cold very quickly and, after a flannel wash, I was wearing most of my clothes while I cooked and ate. The fog is making everything damp and the trees are dropping water on my tent, but I'm cozy and hoping tomorrow will be at least a little easier than today. I'm now following the Great Divide, and water is scarce for a while.

Australian Alps Walking Track - Day 004 - Short Spur Track to Black River

 

Day:004
Date:

Friday, 18 March 2011

Start:

Short Spur Track

Finish:

Black River

Camp LocationHere
Daily Kilometres:

14.4 AAWT, ~14 other

Total Kilometres:

95.5 AAWT

Animal Encounters

Birds

People Encounters

Three forestry workers

Weather:

Cold and foggy early then mostly sunny and cool

Pictures:Here
Journal:

It was still quite dark at 7am when I got up after a long and comfortable night's sleep, though I'm bothered by some pain in my right shoulder. It was cold and foggy outside and I quickly put on some extra clothes as I began pottering around the cabin packing up. Visibility was still only about 30m when I set off at 8:30 and it was cold for the first half hour, but then I climbed above the cloud into beautiful clear skies with various mountain tops poking through the sea of clouds below.

The walking was pleasant along a logging road but mostly uphill until I passed Mt Singleton (1343m). Then it was more logging roads along Champion Spur which was being actively logged and the new work meant that I missed a turn and ended up walking a few km further. It also made navigation difficult later on as I sought a deviation trail recommended by the guidebook because of bad conditions down along Black River. I stopped for lunch on a log in the sun, still a bit unsure of whether I was on the right trail. And as it turned out, I wasn't. But I didn't find out until I had walked about another 5km and descended some treacherous firetrail for an elevation loss of over 600m!  Curses! I was on some cliffs overlooking the Black River, but about 5km downstream of where I needed to be. I considered a few options but, in the end, decided I was safest to return the way I had come.

Two hours later and very dehydrated, I reached the track junction I had dismissed on the way down. In my defence, a number of the trails have different names on maps and this one wasn't marked at all. Anyway, my plans of reaching my food dump at a civilized hour and partying were abandoned and I descended again to the Black River, reaching it at 6:45pm.

There was a small place to put a tent a short distance up a track from the river and I camped there. I had time to have a total immersion wash in the shallow and cold river before having dinner. I have about 6km of tough trail to my food dump and have decided to postpone breakfast until I get there, then try and make up most of the ground I have lost today. There were plenty of places I would rather have been on a sunny Friday afternoon than unnecessarily slogging up that extra hill with no water.

Australian Alps Walking Track - Day 003 - Thomson-Jordan Divide Rd to Short Spur Tk

 

Day:003
Date:

Thursday, 17 March 2011

Start:

Thomson-Jordan Divide Road

Finish:

Short Spur Track

Camp LocationHere
Daily Kilometres:

26.0

Total Kilometres:

84.2

Animal Encounters

Birds

People Encounters

One trail-biker, three forestry workers

Weather:

Mostly sunny and cool

Pictures:Here
Journal:

I got up at 6:45am when it was just light enough to see and, wearing all my rain gear as mosquito protection, was breakfasted, packed up and on my way by 8:50am. The first couple of hours was spent following a faint trail up a ridge to the summit of Mount Easton. It was slow steady work through the forest, but quite pleasant in the cool and away from the mosquitoes. At the top (992m) I was in the clouds and it was cold and damp with no views because of the trees. After that I reached a firetrail and had pleasant cool walking at altitude along tree-fern bordered firetrail and later more open Eucalypt forest.

Then began the very steep descent to the Jordan River. I was very cautious and slow taking baby steps the whole way on the loose gravel firetrail. It took a long time, but I made it safely down to the river which had seen a number of old mining settlements many years ago, but most of the remnants are now overgrown. I stopped at one of them, Red Jacket, for lunch at 1:15pm in pleasant sunshine.  After lunch I had the choice of following the official AAWT route up the crest of a wooded ridge with difficult trail, or following an alternative given in the guide book along a firetrail which ended up in the same place but was 2.7km longer. I chose the latter which climbed steadily for 6km with nice views out to the west, but hard work all the same. I was starting to worry about water for camping tonight and was very happy to come across a small waterfall. I drank my fill and filled my two litre water bottles figuring that would be sufficient to get me through til tomorrow if necessary.

The firetrail continued to climb and eventually passed the summit of Mt Victor (1185m). The air was cool and clear and there were occasional good views across mountains as far as the eye could see. I then followed some gravel roads, encountering three forestry vehicles going home. With only a two kilometers to go to my planned campsite (waterless) I took a short deviation along a firetrail to get off the road and came across a cabin in the wilderness with a rainwater tank.

There was nobody about and it looked like a weekender. At first I thought I would camp outside and "borrow" some of their water, then I thought maybe I would sleep on their roofed deck, and then when I tried the doors and it was unlocked, I decided to stay inside. There was lots of food, etc., but I didn't touch any of it. Just used a little water and camped on one of the beds. The interests of the owners can perhaps be deduced from the magazines on the kitchen table - Guns & Game and One Hundred New Bikini Babes!  Hopefully I'll have a quiet night and be able to get an early start.